The
living pulsating heart of he city, the ghats, are wide tone steps
that descend to the river for almost 5 km along the west bank,
affording a secure bathing platform for devotees whatever the level
of the water. At any point of the day these steps are a kaleidoscope
of colour, a shifting pattern of pilgrims on their way to and from
the river. Here people consult the pandas or priests under their
palm leaf umbrellas or buy offerings for rituals. Rising as a
backdrop to all this activity is the magnificent superstructure of
temples, havelis and the domes and minarets of mosques. A labyrinth
of narrow lanes behind these buildings link the ghats to the rest of
the city. Wandering through this maze can be fascinating. Shops sell
rich brocaded silks, brassware and also all the articles essential
for worship at the numerous little shrines.
Viewing
the ghats early in the morning from a boat on the river can be an
unforgettable experience. They emerge out of the mist like a dream,
to be bathed in the golden glow of the rising sun - an image that
leaves an indelible imprint on one's being. The mist clears, the
light is brighter and the ghats reverberate with the chant of
mantras, the sound of bells and the cries of the vendors. An aroma
of incense sticks, oil lamps and flowers fills the air. At dusk too
the ghats are magical, as hundreds of little lamps float out on the
river as offerings.
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